From Full Moon to Full Circle

rainier mountain

From Full Moon to Full Circle

The first time Lena went to Thailand, she nearly got rabies.

Heraclitus, the weeping philosopher, once said, “No man ever steps in the same river twice, for it’s not the same river and he’s not the same man.”

The year was 2010. Huddled over a computer monitor the size of a refrigerator, Ketut, a Balinese video editor, and I were going through footage I’d taken of myself feeding monkeys. There I was, aged 22, on my first backpacking trip around Southeast Asia, trying fruitlessly to apply for a travel blogger job, and about to realize I might have rabies.

Watching myself on screen, I cringed.

“They warn you here in the monkey forest,” I watched myself say, noticing for the first time that I often talk out of the side of my mouth. “To take of all your valuableth and anything that th-arkle-th our off your perthon.”

That slight lisp my grandmother tried fruitlessly to correct was coming back to haunt me. “The monkeyth might just jump down from a tree and th-teal them!”

It’s just part of your charm, I clung to my dad’s comforting words, some 15 years after he first uttered them to me. I was so focused on “analything” my on-screen self that I almost completely missed it.

“Ha!” Ketut laughed. Before I could say “It’s just part of my charm,” he tapped vigorously at the screen with a toothy smile. “Monkey bite you!”

getting bit by a monkey in Thailand

Lena getting bit. The kid can't even watch.

We watched the clip again. And again. And one more time before I finally got the courage to separate the stack of bracelets on my left wrist. Sure enough, there, etched into my wrist like the stone carvings at the Temples of Angkor, was a complete imprint of strangely human-like top and bottom teeth.

Three rounds of rabies shots later, I would leave my first backpacking trip to Southeast Asia rabies free, but with an entirely new outlook on life and, as a result, two custom Thai-made pant suits I would never wear again. My first jaunt to Thailand, like Sue’s and most early 20-somethings who make the post-grad pilgrimage to the East, was largely spent frolicking down the well-trodden backpacker track, while trying not to land face first in a vodka-Red Bull bucket—a backpacker favourite that doesn’t just give you wings, it gives you a jetpack! While I look back and shake my head now, the aimlessness of that adventure was essential for me, and the seeds for our upcoming adventure were sewn.

Before this first brush with travel, I was, historically, a textbook uptight type-A anxious overachiever. (Not unlike Sue’s counterpart in It’s Only the Himalayas.) My world was as large as the distance between my university campus and my front door. My mind was as open as my Canadian Communications Policy textbook. I imagined then that my future would be marked by pant suits and board rooms, hard-hitting meetings and white walls.

My 22-year-old self wouldn’t recognize me now. That’s not to say I’ve lost my drive; it’s just been entirely transformed. Since then, I’ve abandoned my ambitions to climb any sort of ladder that doesn’t involve a mountain peak. I’ve gone on to travel backpacker-style through South America, volunteer in Guatemala and live among locals in Nicaragua.

These trips led me to start believing in my creative abilities, and pursuing them—to my great surprise—with great success. In Nepal, I unearthed a new passion for climbing and getting really dirty, which led to my most recent endeavour: fulfilling a dream of completing an alpine climb, bagging an unlikely summit of Mount Rainier in Washington.

mount rainier summiting

Lena summitting Mount Rainier, Washington's highest peak. (Mike Powell/Courtesy Lena Desmond)

It’s funny: when I would hear of someone’s plans to go to Thailand, I would say, “If you run across the piece of my soul that I left there, say hello for me.”

I’m ready to shake hands with ghosts of my past and thank them. Combined, all these experiences led me to Outpost, and to my friend and fellow writer Sue Bedford. Now we’re about to head back to the beginning, going back to Thailand to film and chronicle our adventure as—yes!—real travel writers… for you! A real, living, breathing, travel-hungry audience. From a rickety shack studio to a travel professional, I’ve come full circle.

Indeed, we don’t ever step in the same river twice and, no, I am not the same person. A new travel partner, a new goal, and a country I’ve been to once before. I don’t know what will happen as we try to get off the beaten track in a very well-trodden country, but two things are certain: I’ll be keeping my distance from the monkeys, and my s’s have drastically improved.

Watch the Show

Since 2015, Outpost has been sending Lena on adventurous expeditions. An outdoors lover at heart, she never backs down from a new exploration.

Read More Delicious Blog Posts:

new friends in thailand

Time to Say Goodbye

Lena has trouble holding back tears when leaving Thailand.
10th May 17

So Long, and Thanks for All the Pad Thai

Sue bids farewell to Thailand while remembering the biggest highlights.
10th Apr 17

Travelling vs. Travel Writing: A Deeper Connection

Travel writing doesn’t just improve your writing—it makes you a better person.
7th Apr 17

When it Comes to Travel, Love Trumps Fear

No fear of the unknown should stop you from exploring new places.
27th Mar 17
24th Mar 17
20th Mar 17

The Man With The Tinny Guitar

You can’t meet the Black House’s architect. but you can feel his ghost.
10th Mar 17

Mastering the Art of Thai Street Meat

Sometimes the best meals are found accidentally.
6th Mar 17

Behind the Scenes: Travelling for Work vs. Travelling for Fun

Being a professional travel writer is, and isn’t, as glamorous as it sounds.
3rd Mar 17

Different, Different but Same: Finding a New Experience at the Lampang Market

Just when Lena thought she’d seen everything Thai markets offer…
28th Feb 17

The Thai Festivals You Don’t Want to Miss

The If you’re looking for an excuse to visit Thailand, here are four.
22nd Feb 17

How to Enjoy the Journey in all its Forms

Whether relaxing or panicking, it’s the journey that matters most.
14th Feb 17
thailand buddhist statues souvenirs

Don’t Buy the Buddha: Your Thai Souvenir Could Be Sacrilegious

Buddhism is a religion, not an accessory of trendy home decor.
9th Feb 17

When Talking Politics Abroad… Maybe Don’t

Sometimes, the biggest culture shock is what you can and can’t openly discuss.
7th Feb 17

What it’s Like to Travel with a Literary Mind

How did Lena feel after two weeks of travelling with Sue?
2nd Feb 17
eating bugs thailand

The Adventure that is Eating an Insect

Who wants to eat scorpion? Lena sure doesn’t.
30th Jan 17

Bangkok’s Backpacker Fashion Report

Diving into the latest trends from Khao San Road.
26th Jan 17
khao san road tattoo review

Getting Tattooed on Khao San Road

You’ll never guess what Sue got branded forever on her foot.
20th Jan 17
fly from bangkok to taiwan
17th Jan 17
awkward thai massage

Too Neurotic for a Massage

Sue’s biggest problem with Thai massages: You can’t understand the masseuses’ gossip.
12th Jan 17
why i could be a thai expat

Never Question the Chunks: Why You Should Eat Street Meat in Thailand

If you’re looking for good eats, take to the street… meats.
11th Jan 17
sisterhood abroad

A Sisterhood Born Abroad

Nothing tests friendship like travelling together.
29th Dec 16
cathay pacific flight options

6 Ways to Pass the Time on a 15-Hour Flight

From sharpening your chess game to slurping endless noodles, Cathay Pacific has you covered.
26th Dec 16
clif bar backpacking

The One Thing I’ll Never Travel Without

When you’re on the road, only real food keeps the hanger at bay.
22nd Dec 16
thailand expat living

Why I Could Be an Expat in Thailand

With glistening temples and a playful vibe, Sue would happily call Thailand home.
19th Dec 16
chiang mai cabaret show

Chiang Mai’s Cabaret is Second Only to Vegas

With infectious energy and beautiful dancers,  nobody dances like they do in Thai cabarets.
16th Dec 16
hiking northern thailand

In the Jungle, the Spiders Sleep Tonight

Searching for the heart of Thailand in its northern jungles.
14th Dec 16
chiang mai cooking class review

Setting Fire to a Thai Kitchen… in a Good Way

Don’t try this at home. (Unless your home is also a Thai cooking school.)
12th Dec 16
tea fields north thailand

Tea-Leaf Memories at the Choui Fong Tea Plantation

Nothing helps you escape the bustle of Thailand like a cup of tea.
9th Dec 16
opium museum thailand

Chiang Rai’s Opium Museum Makes You Never Want to Try Opium

A more effective anti-drug ad than “This is Your Brain on Drugs”.
8th Dec 16
chiang rai travel guide

Chiang Rai’s Black Temple: If Buddha Walked into a Bar…

It’s like a raunchy, hyper-masculine, American frontier tavern for Buddhists.
7th Dec 16
lampang travel guide

The Little Truk-Truk That Couldn’t

If you’re ever riding in a pickup truck racing up a mountain, jump out.
6th Dec 16
white temple travel story

Chiang Rai’s White Temple is a Modern Architectural Marvel

This place resembles an ice palace in a fairy tale.  
5th Dec 16
2nd Dec 16
dreamer cafe lampang
1st Dec 16
chiang mai bangkok train

Sleeper Trains: The Best Way to Travel When All You Need is Sleep

Of all the land transit in Thailand, the sleeper train wins.
30th Nov 16
yi peng lantern festival story

The Worst Way to End a Thai Lantern Festival

The 2016 Yi Peng festival was dazzling, popular—and ended in the hospital.
29th Nov 16
yi peng chiang mai festival guide

Flight of the Sky Lanterns

Yi Peng, one of Chiang Mai’s biggest festivals, is even bigger than we thought.
28th Nov 16
meeting strangers in thailand

Here’s to You, Grandma Poon

Lena finds an adoptive grandmother on the train to Bangkok.
25th Nov 16

I Love the Open Road and All That It Suggests

Riding in wooden trains, sleeper cars and pickup trucks across Thailand.
24th Nov 16
kanchanaburi train guide

That Time We Missed Our Train to Kanchanburi

Lena, now officially nicknamed Mom, got a little stressed.
23rd Nov 16
elephants world kanchanaburi review

The Ethics of Elephant Tourism in Thailand

Not all elephant sanctuaries are ethical. Thankfully, Elephants World is.
22nd Nov 16
what it's like river kwai kanchanaburi

Spending Remembrance Day on the Real-Life Bridge on the River Kwai

“Tourists snap selfies on the bridge. I don’t understand any of this.”
21st Nov 16

Reflections on Seeing My Grave in a Thai War Cemetery

Who was S. Bedford, the 22-year-old Cambridgeshire Regiment private?
18th Nov 16
thai king mourning bangkok

What it Means to Make a Country Great

Mourning the late King Bhumibol Adulyadej in Bangkok.
17th Nov 16
bangkok market travel

Investigation or Intrusion? Toeing the Travel Journalist’s Line

At Bangkok’s amulet market, not everyone wants to chat with travel writers.
16th Nov 16
bangkok river boat tour

A Banana’s Worth: Haggling on the Chao Phraya River

The traveller’s dilemma: Do you pay what you’re charged, or bargain down?
15th Nov 16

Returning to Bangkok: Same-Same, But Different

Humid, flood-prone and home to 15 million, Bangkok is a marvel.
14th Nov 16
cathay pacific yvr airport

6 Luxuries I Had No Idea People Actually Enjoyed in Airports

Airport lounges literally take your travel experience from a two to a 10.
11th Nov 16

Jibbing From Jabs: Getting Travel-Vaccinated When It’s the Last Thing You Want to Do

Sue’s no anti-vaxxer, but that doesn’t mean she likes getting stabbed in the arm.
8th Nov 16

The Push Factor: Less-Awesome Reasons Why We Travel

Sue’s visited 50 countries in a decade. What’s she running from?
7th Nov 16
travel inspiration

Forget “Finding Yourself” (Or: How Travel Transformed My Brain)

Travel isn’t about “finding yourself.” It’s about becoming someone new.
6th Nov 16

Thailand’s Four Most Stunning Unique Natural Wonders

These places are so cool, James Bond had a duel to the death there.
5th Nov 16
canmore kananaskis mountain climb

Always With the Trekking: Ruminations on Keeping Up With Lena

Lena likes mountains. Sue, less so. This makes Sue very, very worried.
4th Nov 16
how to behave in thailand

Pretend Your Left Hand Doesn’t Exist, and Other Etiquette Tips to Follow in Thailand

Your guide to greetings, utensils and common courtesies in Thailand.
3rd Nov 16
Why Lena Travels

I’ve Chosen My Shit Sandwich and It Tastes Damn Good

Not literally, of course. It’s a metaphor… for life. 
2nd Nov 16

From Full Moon to Full Circle

The first time Lena went to Thailand, she nearly got rabies.
2nd Nov 16
vodka red bull bucket thailand

Venturing Beyond the Bucket

On this Thailand trip, years after her first, Sue would like less vomit, please.
1st Nov 16

Copyright © 2016 Outpost Travel Media
Made possible with the support of the